I chose a two-button jacket because it is a longstanding traditional option and allows for longer lapels, which provide a longer vertical meridian (this will make me look taller). To my surprise, Mr. Z and his assistant tailors finish all of their suits with hand-cut button holes and working surgeons cuffs (the buttons and button holes actually function, and the cuffs can be rolled up the sleeves of the suit). This extra special touch is a mark of sartorial distinction, and while I do not plan on performing an appendectomy at my wedding, I appreciate these subtle yet fashionable details.
To match my medium gray suit, I chose a beautiful silver paisley pattern for the lining. Thanks to an annual sale at Mr. Zs I was also able to afford a vest to complete my suit. The lining inside the coat will be used for the back of the vest. Mr. Z specializes in side straps that sit at the hips to tighten his bespoke vests. He explained that this option keeps the material from bunching up in the back and provides a cleaner look. Among a half-dozen options for vest styles and cuts, I chose a five-button vest with lapels to echo the style of the jacket. Ive always thought that vests without lapels are best for casual pairings with jeans and a button down. If youre buying a nice three-piece suit for a special occasion, go with the lapels on your vest. I completed my purchase with four french-cuff custom shirts in ivory, mint (more blue than green), light pink, and cobalt blue with subtle variations in texture. Mr. Rouleau was a tremendous help when selecting the spread of the collars on these shirts. When youre short and broad, there is a delicate balance in the height and width of a shirt collar. On one hand a tall collar will choke a short neck, and on the other a wide collar will overemphasize shoulder width and overpower the face.
My order is placed, my bill is paid. Now I eagerly await mid-March, when I get to go back to Mr. Z for my second fitting. At that time, Ill get to try everything on and hell make final adjustments to ensure the perfect fit. Ill be back in a few weeks to let you know how that goes.
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