Vested suits share most of their disadvantages with the double-breasted jacket. They must be kept buttoned for formality’s sake and they add a layer of cloth across the midsection that may be hot or uncomfortable in humid climates. Small men risk looking swallowed by their clothing, and the vest creates an unbroken plane of fabric that can make tall men appear looming. Very wide men may have trouble fitting a vest that doesn’t seem to hang off the edge of their belly (though wearing the trousers high on the waist helps quite a bit).
Despite the drawbacks, the vested suit remains a worthwhile investment for men looking to add class and formality to their dress wardrobe. It offers a distinctive elegance, and in some settings the vest or the jacket over it can be removed to offer relief from the added layer of cloth. The timeless style of the three-piece suit is worth experimenting with for any man, whether it becomes a staple of his wardrobe or not.
The Double Breasted Suit and Accessories
The accessory rules when wearing a double-breasted suit are very similar to single-breasted suits. When it comes to neckwear, either a bow tie or neck tie can be worn. However, the presence of no neckwear whatsoever is a definite style blunder, as that the double-breasted jacket’s formality by default demands something to adorn the neck. A necktie’s width has always been determined by the jacket’s lapel, although with the double breasted jacket this can be difficult when they are wider than four and a half inches. Average lapel widths range from 3.375 inches to 4.25 inches, with most double-breasted coat lapels leaning towards the later. A necktie within the width range of 4 inches is always a safe bet. More important than the width of the necktie however is the tie’s knot; with 70% of the tie hidden under a buttoned jacket, the knot takes center stage. Be sure to pay attention when you compress the knot to form a strong inverted “V”. With the tie knot’s proximity so close to your face, a blunder here will surely not go unnoticed. Finally, carefully choose a pocket handkerchief that conveys the message you wish to send. With little shirt and tie showing, the breast pocket handkerchief will have a stronger effect than when it is worn with a single-breasted jacket.
For men who are tall, broad-shouldered, or both, the double-breasted suit is a boon to the wardrobe. The double-breasted blazer, too, is a brilliant way to do casual with flair. While every man will own and wear single-breasted jackets, going double-breasted provides a special opportunity to broaden one’s sartorial horizons without straying from tradition.
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